Bone Cleaning Tools: What I use and what I use them for


1. Dissection Kit: $20-40 on Amazon. 

You can buy a starting dissection kit online on Amazon. When you buy your kit you should expect a few things. Most likely you will be getting 2-3 different kinds of forceps, 1 scalpel, 2 kinds tweezers, and possibly a few kinds of scissors.

These kits are always handy because they have a nice variety of instruments and a portable carrying case. Unfortunately this neat kit won’t have everything you need so you will most likely expand your collection. I will further explain the tools further along in the post.

2. Latex Gloves: $5-10

Gloves are important! When you are working with messy things you don’t want to have the risk in getting an infection of some sort. Gloves help protect you and your specimen. Our fingers are very oily and the oil will eventually leave stains on the bone.

Now I don’t always use gloves. This is, of course, under my own discretion. If most of the skin and fur is dried up, sometimes wearing gloves can get in the way. Gloves are definitely important, unless there isn’t much of a mess to deal with.

3. Forceps: $3+

Forceps are medical tweezers. There are different sizes and buying various sizes will help you out in the long run. Having different sized forceps will allow you to work more efficiently on different animals. I use forceps to assist me in skin removal and cleaning the small nooks.

4. Sewing Needles $.50-3

Sewing needles also assist in getting into small places. They are precise and sharp making them able to get to all the small places.

5. Disposable Scalpel w/ extra Blades $10+

You can either get a disposable or a replaceable scalpel. I use scalpels to help take off the meat off the bones. Whether you get a fresh kill or you found an animal that had died, a scalpel helps take off the hide, gets the bones off the meat and cut the tendons off the bone. Be very careful when using them. Cool enough there are actually different sizes in blades and shapes. Once again, getting a variety of tools can only help you more.

6. Teeth Cleaning Metal Instruments: $10

Teeth cleaning supplies are the best! They have interesting scraping blades on each end of the tool. I got mine from an online clay tool shop for around 10 dollars. They are easy to be precise with, but I do admit it hurts your fingers a bit. Along the handle of the teeth cleaning tool there is a texture in the metal, that after time is completely uncomfortable. I suggest getting pencil jelly’s so your fingers can rest easy.

7. Toothbrush: $.50

I use a tooth brush to further clean the bone. After I have done my soaks I take my BONE toothbrush and clean the bone in circular motions-as you would with your own teeth. I enjoy cleaning with a toothbrush because I love seeing the before and after of the bone. Since you can get different types of brushes I highly suggest getting 1 hard, 1 medium and 1 soft-once again for different situations.

8. Paint Brushes: $.50+

Paintbrushes are used to gently remove debris, dust and other obstacles. Getting different sized brushes can help you remove from a various amount of animal skulls.

9. Pipe Cleaner: $3

I use a pipe cleaner to help get into the different cavities in the skeleton. After cleaning the bones it is sometimes hard to dry off the liquid in the small holes.

10. Dull Knife: $free!

A  dull knife is easily attainable and easy to use. Just like pealing a pear or an apple, you can use the knife to gently pull back remaining skin with out harming the bone.

11. Serrated Tip Pliers: $4

Pliers with a serrated tip is my personal best friend when it comes to removing meat from the bone. Because it is serrated the plier is able to hold tightly onto the skin as you pull away.

12. Weldbond Glue: $4

I use this glue to glue the teeth back into space. It is a very sturdy glue and doesn’t make a mess. I take an uncooked spaghetti and dip the tip in the glue then into the teeth cavities in the mandible.

13. Plastic Containers: $1+

Bone cleaning w.o plastic containers of any sort is a crisis. I use plastic containers for every part of cleaning. The soaks, the touch ups, the final cleanings. I always have a container of some sort with me when I clean bones.

14. H2O2 Hydrogen Peroxide: $2+

2:2 ratio of water and H.P when cleaning. If you can, I highly suggest getting 6% Hydrogen peroxide. Not only does hydrogen sterilize the bone but it also bleaches it too! NEVER USE BLEACH. It breaks down the calcium in the bone making the bone very brittle.


Resin Update!

Can you believe I am almost out of my first can of resin??? I did a few pieces recently. I have made a few mistakes and I am going to share them with you.

1. Medical Bracelet

This bangle is super cute! And I absolutely love what I did but today I realized something. The pills are too thick so they chip off when I throw my arm around.

Solution: Thicker Mold


2. Bone En-capturing

I will master this skill I promise your butt that! A few things went wrong the the following photos of my creations.

a. moss is not dried and is dyed?

My moss affected a few of my pieces. A few of them did not cure well or as swiftly as it usually does. Also, the moss is dyed? So my pieces had a hue of light green. I should have known

Solution: Dried Moss? or stick to dried plants.

b. moss was overflowing

The moss was overflowing the back

Solution: trim?



HOW TO: Label a self made pattern


  • Ruffle Skirt
  • Front Piece
  • Cut 2x &2x Interfacing
  • S.A 5/8ths
  • Bring attention with a highlighter to any darts, notches or clips

Let’s say you made a pattern for pants or a skirt(etc.) It looks awesome but so bare! Wait what side is the front? Wait why does my skirt look like a bag? YOU DIDN’T LABEL!

Lets learn what you have to put on every pattern:

  1. GRAIN

The grain is one of the most important things to have labeled on a pattern. Depending on how you cut it your piece can turn out not how you envisioned it. This is why grain is important. The lengthwise and cross wise grain of fabric refers to the directions parallel to the warp and weft . The grain is how the threads were made into fabric. You would want to cut on the grain because everything will fall into place. Whereas …


The bias cut is a cut made at a 45 degree angle. If you want a dress that flows you want to cut on the bias. Cutting on the bias will make your piece have a draping effect.

3. CF-CB

Center Front & Center Back are two things that NEED to be labeled. The center front is where you have zippers(front-pants) and it is where you match the front of your item with a collar or a waist band. The center back is the same thing. There are usually four notches on your pattern CF-CB and your sides. You use these markings to help you figure out where things are supposed to go


It is always smart to label that pattern piece. You have several patterns laying across your table and you are trying to find the bodice. You waste five min, trying to figure out which paper piece is the piece you want. Labeling BODICE FRONT on the piece will make your time flow much more smoothly.


Remember to always label how many pieces you need to cut for each piece. (Remember to label how much interfacing you need to cut as well.)

This weeks addiction: Resin!

What is Resin? What do you use it for? How do you use it? What can you put in it?


There are two types of resin- natural  and synthetic. Natural resin is a type of sticky goo that plants secrete. Synthetic is…. you guessed it! Synthetic Resin is man made.


Resin is used for various amount of things. You can make jewelry, ornaments, paper weights. It can be used to put a nice glossy cover on paintings or photographs. Sometimes the resin itself it the art!


When you buy resin from your local hardware store or you nearest craft store, you will need to buy a few things. 

  • Resin (clear!)
  • Catalyst (hardener)
  • measuring cups (disposable)
  • silicon or plastic mold
  • Popsicle stick
  • charms
  • dyes or pigments 

Here is the tricky part. To make the resin you will need to add a catalyst: Another chemical that has a an affect on the resin. You MUST be precise! If too much catalyst is added the whole piece will over heat (the reactions between the chemicals) and burst! If little catalyst is added your piece will be forever sticky. When starting to work with resin finding a clear set of directions were hard so I will give you mine and I will make a video  to show you in person.

Mixing Resin and a Catalyst:

  1. Make sure you are outside if you bought resin that is in a metal can (some are odorless) My resin will get you messed up really fast if you are not in a well ventilated area. Go outside or have a fan and open all the windows
  2. For ever ounce of resin there are 10 drops of catalyst. Just to give you an idea 2 ounces of resin is 1/4 of a cup (remember 10p/oz-so in the 2oz case, you will add 20 drops)
  3. Pour your resin in a paper or plastic (not foam) cup. Pour from 6-10 inches above the cup and SLOWLY. You are trying to avoid making bubbles, so if the resin is dripping from a higher distance  it is more likely to condense into a nice steady stream that won’t form bubbles.
  4. Pour that resin in a different cup, using the Popsicle stick to scrape the excess into the different cup. Then add your hardener 10drops/per.oz. 
  5. This part requires patience-mixing. When mixing the hardener and the resin together you want to make sure you are mixing well and for the right time. Because the catalyst permanently makes the resin turn hard you are under a time constraint. Mix SLOWLY and thoroughly, scraping the bottom and the sides. (The hardener looks like clear oil and it leaves streaks make sure you are mixing until those streaks are gone.) You may add your pigment in now (the weird think about pigment is that it affects how much catalyst you can put in. Look for specific instructions.
  6. After 2-3 min of mixing, the resin starts to get thicker-this is when you pour the resin into your mold! Be careful and neat-you do not want this on your maple wood dinner table .
  7. When you are done pouring add your charms in! Quickly before it hardens.
  8. Place the mold in the sun with a plastic tupperware container over it (to block particles flying and drying onto the resin.
  9. Wait until it dries! This may take anywhere from 1-24 hours. *


*I did a piece today and when I was done making breakfast two of the pieces were rock solid. It’s obviously because I am in Texas and as the saying goes “everything is bigger in Texas”-they aren’t kidding you-the sun is even bigger in Texas


These are two of my first pieces-they are plain and not perfect. So cool thoughImageImage


What can you put in resin??

Resin is such a cool thing! You can put SO many things in it.

You can paint resin. This guy painted every little layer of resin that he did. the end result is a art piece that looks real!



You can put beads:



You can add plants like flowers, moss, grass ect:Image

You can add bugs to the resin too! They will stay perfectly preserved:Image

DIY Patio Decor!

Image Here is our ugly Patio…




















Hideous Air Conditioner…. Can see into the neighbors balcony, and the shrubs are way too overgrown.


















I used these Items to attach the Bamboo fencing.


24 guage galvanized wire,

1″ nails

Pliers with a wire cutter
















The fencing is pretty weak, and our winds are VERY strong. So I devised a great way to keep the fence upright. I take two nails, nail them about a inch to half-inch away from each other. I take the wire about 5 inches of it, and i do a twisty 8 around both of the nails. and then I individually wrap them around their own nail to keep them more sturdy.

















I found this awesome piece of burlap and I thought it would be awesome to paint it and put it up in my patio.

I put the burlap on a nice area with two poster boards underneath. The paint goes directly to the paper underneath.


And here is the finished piece! I am not done with the whole patio, but I covered up the ugly part and the fence🙂 more to come. stay updated!