Sorry for the lag on updates

I have been really sick the last two weeks. Still no diagnosis. Oh well! 


So recently I found a new love…Sculpy

Oh the wondrous things you can do with Sculpy. My next post will be talking all about it!


How 2 Organize Patterns & Fabric

Mimi is such a smart girl! I stumbled upon one of her posts. Check it out!

My Sewing Studio How I Organize Patterns & Fabric.


I love the cork board idea

I love the separate cutting table

I love how all the patterns are in those yellow folders

I love how she has all of those sewing books!

Resin Update!

Can you believe I am almost out of my first can of resin??? I did a few pieces recently. I have made a few mistakes and I am going to share them with you.

1. Medical Bracelet

This bangle is super cute! And I absolutely love what I did but today I realized something. The pills are too thick so they chip off when I throw my arm around.

Solution: Thicker Mold


2. Bone En-capturing

I will master this skill I promise your butt that! A few things went wrong the the following photos of my creations.

a. moss is not dried and is dyed?

My moss affected a few of my pieces. A few of them did not cure well or as swiftly as it usually does. Also, the moss is dyed? So my pieces had a hue of light green. I should have known

Solution: Dried Moss? or stick to dried plants.

b. moss was overflowing

The moss was overflowing the back

Solution: trim?



HOW TO: Label a self made pattern


  • Ruffle Skirt
  • Front Piece
  • Cut 2x &2x Interfacing
  • S.A 5/8ths
  • Bring attention with a highlighter to any darts, notches or clips

Let’s say you made a pattern for pants or a skirt(etc.) It looks awesome but so bare! Wait what side is the front? Wait why does my skirt look like a bag? YOU DIDN’T LABEL!

Lets learn what you have to put on every pattern:

  1. GRAIN

The grain is one of the most important things to have labeled on a pattern. Depending on how you cut it your piece can turn out not how you envisioned it. This is why grain is important. The lengthwise and cross wise grain of fabric refers to the directions parallel to the warp and weft . The grain is how the threads were made into fabric. You would want to cut on the grain because everything will fall into place. Whereas …


The bias cut is a cut made at a 45 degree angle. If you want a dress that flows you want to cut on the bias. Cutting on the bias will make your piece have a draping effect.

3. CF-CB

Center Front & Center Back are two things that NEED to be labeled. The center front is where you have zippers(front-pants) and it is where you match the front of your item with a collar or a waist band. The center back is the same thing. There are usually four notches on your pattern CF-CB and your sides. You use these markings to help you figure out where things are supposed to go


It is always smart to label that pattern piece. You have several patterns laying across your table and you are trying to find the bodice. You waste five min, trying to figure out which paper piece is the piece you want. Labeling BODICE FRONT on the piece will make your time flow much more smoothly.


Remember to always label how many pieces you need to cut for each piece. (Remember to label how much interfacing you need to cut as well.)

This weeks addiction: Resin!

What is Resin? What do you use it for? How do you use it? What can you put in it?


There are two types of resin- natural  and synthetic. Natural resin is a type of sticky goo that plants secrete. Synthetic is…. you guessed it! Synthetic Resin is man made.


Resin is used for various amount of things. You can make jewelry, ornaments, paper weights. It can be used to put a nice glossy cover on paintings or photographs. Sometimes the resin itself it the art!


When you buy resin from your local hardware store or you nearest craft store, you will need to buy a few things. 

  • Resin (clear!)
  • Catalyst (hardener)
  • measuring cups (disposable)
  • silicon or plastic mold
  • Popsicle stick
  • charms
  • dyes or pigments 

Here is the tricky part. To make the resin you will need to add a catalyst: Another chemical that has a an affect on the resin. You MUST be precise! If too much catalyst is added the whole piece will over heat (the reactions between the chemicals) and burst! If little catalyst is added your piece will be forever sticky. When starting to work with resin finding a clear set of directions were hard so I will give you mine and I will make a video  to show you in person.

Mixing Resin and a Catalyst:

  1. Make sure you are outside if you bought resin that is in a metal can (some are odorless) My resin will get you messed up really fast if you are not in a well ventilated area. Go outside or have a fan and open all the windows
  2. For ever ounce of resin there are 10 drops of catalyst. Just to give you an idea 2 ounces of resin is 1/4 of a cup (remember 10p/oz-so in the 2oz case, you will add 20 drops)
  3. Pour your resin in a paper or plastic (not foam) cup. Pour from 6-10 inches above the cup and SLOWLY. You are trying to avoid making bubbles, so if the resin is dripping from a higher distance  it is more likely to condense into a nice steady stream that won’t form bubbles.
  4. Pour that resin in a different cup, using the Popsicle stick to scrape the excess into the different cup. Then add your hardener 10drops/per.oz. 
  5. This part requires patience-mixing. When mixing the hardener and the resin together you want to make sure you are mixing well and for the right time. Because the catalyst permanently makes the resin turn hard you are under a time constraint. Mix SLOWLY and thoroughly, scraping the bottom and the sides. (The hardener looks like clear oil and it leaves streaks make sure you are mixing until those streaks are gone.) You may add your pigment in now (the weird think about pigment is that it affects how much catalyst you can put in. Look for specific instructions.
  6. After 2-3 min of mixing, the resin starts to get thicker-this is when you pour the resin into your mold! Be careful and neat-you do not want this on your maple wood dinner table .
  7. When you are done pouring add your charms in! Quickly before it hardens.
  8. Place the mold in the sun with a plastic tupperware container over it (to block particles flying and drying onto the resin.
  9. Wait until it dries! This may take anywhere from 1-24 hours. *


*I did a piece today and when I was done making breakfast two of the pieces were rock solid. It’s obviously because I am in Texas and as the saying goes “everything is bigger in Texas”-they aren’t kidding you-the sun is even bigger in Texas


These are two of my first pieces-they are plain and not perfect. So cool thoughImageImage


What can you put in resin??

Resin is such a cool thing! You can put SO many things in it.

You can paint resin. This guy painted every little layer of resin that he did. the end result is a art piece that looks real!



You can put beads:



You can add plants like flowers, moss, grass ect:Image

You can add bugs to the resin too! They will stay perfectly preserved:Image