Can you believe I am almost out of my first can of resin??? I did a few pieces recently. I have made a few mistakes and I am going to share them with you.
1. Medical Bracelet
This bangle is super cute! And I absolutely love what I did but today I realized something. The pills are too thick so they chip off when I throw my arm around.
Solution: Thicker Mold
2. Bone En-capturing
I will master this skill I promise your butt that! A few things went wrong the the following photos of my creations.
a. moss is not dried and is dyed?
My moss affected a few of my pieces. A few of them did not cure well or as swiftly as it usually does. Also, the moss is dyed? So my pieces had a hue of light green. I should have known
Solution: Dried Moss? or stick to dried plants.
b. moss was overflowing
The moss was overflowing the back
TIP******** MEASURE. MEASURE. MEASURE YOUR RESIN IN A SEPARATE CUP. I TRIED EYEING IT AND IT IS NOT SMART! SAVE YOUR MONEY, AND YOUR ART AND MEASURE
What is Resin? What do you use it for? How do you use it? What can you put in it?
There are two types of resin- natural and synthetic. Natural resin is a type of sticky goo that plants secrete. Synthetic is…. you guessed it! Synthetic Resin is man made.
Resin is used for various amount of things. You can make jewelry, ornaments, paper weights. It can be used to put a nice glossy cover on paintings or photographs. Sometimes the resin itself it the art!
When you buy resin from your local hardware store or you nearest craft store, you will need to buy a few things.
- Resin (clear!)
- Catalyst (hardener)
- measuring cups (disposable)
- silicon or plastic mold
- Popsicle stick
- dyes or pigments
Here is the tricky part. To make the resin you will need to add a catalyst: Another chemical that has a an affect on the resin. You MUST be precise! If too much catalyst is added the whole piece will over heat (the reactions between the chemicals) and burst! If little catalyst is added your piece will be forever sticky. When starting to work with resin finding a clear set of directions were hard so I will give you mine and I will make a video to show you in person.
Mixing Resin and a Catalyst:
- Make sure you are outside if you bought resin that is in a metal can (some are odorless) My resin will get you messed up really fast if you are not in a well ventilated area. Go outside or have a fan and open all the windows
- For ever ounce of resin there are 10 drops of catalyst. Just to give you an idea 2 ounces of resin is 1/4 of a cup (remember 10p/oz-so in the 2oz case, you will add 20 drops)
- Pour your resin in a paper or plastic (not foam) cup. Pour from 6-10 inches above the cup and SLOWLY. You are trying to avoid making bubbles, so if the resin is dripping from a higher distance it is more likely to condense into a nice steady stream that won’t form bubbles.
- Pour that resin in a different cup, using the Popsicle stick to scrape the excess into the different cup. Then add your hardener 10drops/per.oz.
- This part requires patience-mixing. When mixing the hardener and the resin together you want to make sure you are mixing well and for the right time. Because the catalyst permanently makes the resin turn hard you are under a time constraint. Mix SLOWLY and thoroughly, scraping the bottom and the sides. (The hardener looks like clear oil and it leaves streaks make sure you are mixing until those streaks are gone.) You may add your pigment in now (the weird think about pigment is that it affects how much catalyst you can put in. Look for specific instructions.
- After 2-3 min of mixing, the resin starts to get thicker-this is when you pour the resin into your mold! Be careful and neat-you do not want this on your maple wood dinner table .
- When you are done pouring add your charms in! Quickly before it hardens.
- Place the mold in the sun with a plastic tupperware container over it (to block particles flying and drying onto the resin.
- Wait until it dries! This may take anywhere from 1-24 hours. *
*I did a piece today and when I was done making breakfast two of the pieces were rock solid. It’s obviously because I am in Texas and as the saying goes “everything is bigger in Texas”-they aren’t kidding you-the sun is even bigger in Texas
These are two of my first pieces-they are plain and not perfect. So cool though
What can you put in resin??
Resin is such a cool thing! You can put SO many things in it.
You can paint resin. This guy painted every little layer of resin that he did. the end result is a art piece that looks real!
You can put beads:
You can add plants like flowers, moss, grass ect:
You can add bugs to the resin too! They will stay perfectly preserved:
Here is our ugly Patio…
Hideous Air Conditioner…. Can see into the neighbors balcony, and the shrubs are way too overgrown.
I used these Items to attach the Bamboo fencing.
24 guage galvanized wire,
Pliers with a wire cutter
The fencing is pretty weak, and our winds are VERY strong. So I devised a great way to keep the fence upright. I take two nails, nail them about a inch to half-inch away from each other. I take the wire about 5 inches of it, and i do a twisty 8 around both of the nails. and then I individually wrap them around their own nail to keep them more sturdy.
I found this awesome piece of burlap and I thought it would be awesome to paint it and put it up in my patio.
I put the burlap on a nice area with two poster boards underneath. The paint goes directly to the paper underneath.
And here is the finished piece! I am not done with the whole patio, but I covered up the ugly part and the fence 🙂 more to come. stay updated!
The past few days have been very lazy. I have been cleaning the house to prepare for my boyfriends mother to come into town. I did have a haul at Hobby Lobby. Oh god, Hobby Lobby will bring the death to me and my wallet. I got a lot of fun stuff:
And I am currently working on the doll and another dress for Piper. I did not use a pattern, but I used a 4t shirt from the store, cut it and added the skirt area. Of course, I highly suggest that you use patterns. If you follow a pattern properly you CANT mess up. If you are doing like me, you might mess up. It is almost inevitable. So here is the dress and doll that I am working on:
I would love to hear some feedback on this dress. I made little jelly fish tentacles so when she spins around it gives more body. I have not finished the hem yet and I may consider making it a bubble skirt
I saw this idea and I thought it was so cool. Take any branch and paint it any color and stick it anywhere and it will look very very cool!
I like to use fused plastic, because the material is easily available and versatile. I use in quite a few of my projects.
I made a cardboard tray and lined it by fusing a plastic bag directly on the cardboard. I also made the handles for the tray by fusing plastic around a nylon cord. My junk mail and magazine vases have removable fused plastic linings. This lets me fill them with water for fresh flowers. I created plastic versions of my origami accessorieswith squares of fused plastic. These are great, because they’re more durable than the paper versions. I even use this technique to wrap gifts.
Fused plastic is waterproof, flexible, easy to work with, and a cinch to make. Let’s get started.
- 1 plastic bag
- 1 pair scissors
- wax paper, parchment paper, or copy paper (Forego used copy paper. Ink from the paper may transfer onto your iron or the plastic. Use new copy paper. You can always print on the paper after your done using it to your fuse plastic. I’m going to use wax paper because it’s what I have in my kitchen at the moment.)
- 1 clothes iron
- 1 towel, ironing board
- First, cut off the bottom seam of the bag.
- Now cut off the handles.
- Flatten out the bag.
- If you’re using a towel, layout it out on your work surface. I prefer using towels, because I find it easier to fuse sheets of plastic on a larger surface.
- If the plastic bag has printed graphics, turn the bag inside out. This prevents the bag’s ink from transferring onto your waxed paper or iron and smudging everywhere.
- Lay a protective sheet of wax, parchment, or copy paper underneath the bag.
- Place second a sheet on top.
- Set the iron on polyester or rayon and turn of the steam.
- Iron the plastic bag, running the hot iron from the center outwards. This prevents air from getting trapped in the bag and forming bubbles. If you do find bubbles you can pop them with a pin and iron over them. Keep the iron moving at all times running over the entire surface two to three times. The plastic bag will smoothen and the protective sheet will adhere to the plastic bag. Be careful to run the iron over the protective sheet only and not directly on the plastic bag, otherwise you may melt the bag onto your work surface and your iron.
- Turn the plastic bag over while keeping it sandwiched between the protective sheets.
- Iron this side of the plastic bag.
- Allow the fused plastic to cool.
- Once it’s cool to the touch carefully peel off the protective sheets. If the plastic isn’t fused completely sandwich it between protective sheets and iron again.
- Now you have a two-ply sheet of fused plastic. You can make it thicker by ironing another plastic bag onto it. Remember to sandwich the plastic between protective paper before ironing!
- Keep the scraps from the bottom and handles. You can place them on top and fuse them with the main part of the plastic bag too, so there’s no need to throw anything in the trash.
- Ironing your plastic a little longer will cause it to melt and form holes. This can make for an interesting texture, but be careful not to burn it!
- You can fuse multiple bags together to make an even thicker and durable plastic sheet. Fuse additional plastic bags by stacking one on top and fusing it completely before stacking on another. If you try ironing together a stack that’s too thick, the iron may not be able to fuse the bags in the center of the stack
- Cut out shapes from different colored bags and fuse it on fused plastic sheet for like an appliqué effect.
- I made my plastic origami accessories using four-ply fused plastic. You can even go up to six or eight-ply.
- There will be minimal fumes, so keep the door to your work room open or crack open a window.
- Here’s a tip from talented crafter, Arely. You can use clear plastic bags to laminate paper. If you use a clear plastic bag, be careful because it tends to melt faster. After fusing, the plastic will still be clear, but it will have a matte finish.
- Becky, the plastic crafting maven of Crop Rotation, says sewing plastic is like sewing regular fabric, but can be a little more slippery. Use denim sewing machine needles and general purpose yarn or denim yarn.
This fused plastic was ironed a little longer, giving it an interesting holey texture.
Fused plastic can be layered quite thick. This piece is about 1/4″ thick.
Thanks to http://www.relevedesign.com/how-to-fuse-plastic-bags/ for this idea!