Resin Update!

Can you believe I am almost out of my first can of resin??? I did a few pieces recently. I have made a few mistakes and I am going to share them with you.

1. Medical Bracelet

This bangle is super cute! And I absolutely love what I did but today I realized something. The pills are too thick so they chip off when I throw my arm around.

Solution: Thicker Mold

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2. Bone En-capturing

I will master this skill I promise your butt that! A few things went wrong the the following photos of my creations.

a. moss is not dried and is dyed?

My moss affected a few of my pieces. A few of them did not cure well or as swiftly as it usually does. Also, the moss is dyed? So my pieces had a hue of light green. I should have known

Solution: Dried Moss? or stick to dried plants.

b. moss was overflowing

The moss was overflowing the back

Solution: trim?

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TIP******** MEASURE. MEASURE. MEASURE YOUR RESIN IN A SEPARATE CUP. I TRIED EYEING IT AND IT IS NOT SMART! SAVE YOUR MONEY, AND YOUR ART AND MEASURE

HOW TO: Label a self made pattern

I.E:

  • Ruffle Skirt
  • Front Piece
  • Cut 2x &2x Interfacing
  • S.A 5/8ths
  • Bring attention with a highlighter to any darts, notches or clips

Let’s say you made a pattern for pants or a skirt(etc.) It looks awesome but so bare! Wait what side is the front? Wait why does my skirt look like a bag? YOU DIDN’T LABEL!

Lets learn what you have to put on every pattern:

  1. GRAIN

The grain is one of the most important things to have labeled on a pattern. Depending on how you cut it your piece can turn out not how you envisioned it. This is why grain is important. The lengthwise and cross wise grain of fabric refers to the directions parallel to the warp and weft . The grain is how the threads were made into fabric. You would want to cut on the grain because everything will fall into place. Whereas …

2. BIAS

The bias cut is a cut made at a 45 degree angle. If you want a dress that flows you want to cut on the bias. Cutting on the bias will make your piece have a draping effect.

3. CF-CB

Center Front & Center Back are two things that NEED to be labeled. The center front is where you have zippers(front-pants) and it is where you match the front of your item with a collar or a waist band. The center back is the same thing. There are usually four notches on your pattern CF-CB and your sides. You use these markings to help you figure out where things are supposed to go

4. NAMING

It is always smart to label that pattern piece. You have several patterns laying across your table and you are trying to find the bodice. You waste five min, trying to figure out which paper piece is the piece you want. Labeling BODICE FRONT on the piece will make your time flow much more smoothly.

5. CUTS

Remember to always label how many pieces you need to cut for each piece. (Remember to label how much interfacing you need to cut as well.)

This weeks addiction: Resin!

What is Resin? What do you use it for? How do you use it? What can you put in it?

 

There are two types of resin- natural  and synthetic. Natural resin is a type of sticky goo that plants secrete. Synthetic is…. you guessed it! Synthetic Resin is man made.

 

Resin is used for various amount of things. You can make jewelry, ornaments, paper weights. It can be used to put a nice glossy cover on paintings or photographs. Sometimes the resin itself it the art!

 

When you buy resin from your local hardware store or you nearest craft store, you will need to buy a few things. 

  • Resin (clear!)
  • Catalyst (hardener)
  • measuring cups (disposable)
  • silicon or plastic mold
  • Popsicle stick
  • charms
  • dyes or pigments 

Here is the tricky part. To make the resin you will need to add a catalyst: Another chemical that has a an affect on the resin. You MUST be precise! If too much catalyst is added the whole piece will over heat (the reactions between the chemicals) and burst! If little catalyst is added your piece will be forever sticky. When starting to work with resin finding a clear set of directions were hard so I will give you mine and I will make a video  to show you in person.

Mixing Resin and a Catalyst:

  1. Make sure you are outside if you bought resin that is in a metal can (some are odorless) My resin will get you messed up really fast if you are not in a well ventilated area. Go outside or have a fan and open all the windows
  2. For ever ounce of resin there are 10 drops of catalyst. Just to give you an idea 2 ounces of resin is 1/4 of a cup (remember 10p/oz-so in the 2oz case, you will add 20 drops)
  3. Pour your resin in a paper or plastic (not foam) cup. Pour from 6-10 inches above the cup and SLOWLY. You are trying to avoid making bubbles, so if the resin is dripping from a higher distance  it is more likely to condense into a nice steady stream that won’t form bubbles.
  4. Pour that resin in a different cup, using the Popsicle stick to scrape the excess into the different cup. Then add your hardener 10drops/per.oz. 
  5. This part requires patience-mixing. When mixing the hardener and the resin together you want to make sure you are mixing well and for the right time. Because the catalyst permanently makes the resin turn hard you are under a time constraint. Mix SLOWLY and thoroughly, scraping the bottom and the sides. (The hardener looks like clear oil and it leaves streaks make sure you are mixing until those streaks are gone.) You may add your pigment in now (the weird think about pigment is that it affects how much catalyst you can put in. Look for specific instructions.
  6. After 2-3 min of mixing, the resin starts to get thicker-this is when you pour the resin into your mold! Be careful and neat-you do not want this on your maple wood dinner table .
  7. When you are done pouring add your charms in! Quickly before it hardens.
  8. Place the mold in the sun with a plastic tupperware container over it (to block particles flying and drying onto the resin.
  9. Wait until it dries! This may take anywhere from 1-24 hours. *

 

*I did a piece today and when I was done making breakfast two of the pieces were rock solid. It’s obviously because I am in Texas and as the saying goes “everything is bigger in Texas”-they aren’t kidding you-the sun is even bigger in Texas

 

These are two of my first pieces-they are plain and not perfect. So cool thoughImageImage

 

What can you put in resin??

Resin is such a cool thing! You can put SO many things in it.

You can paint resin. This guy painted every little layer of resin that he did. the end result is a art piece that looks real!

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You can put beads:

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You can add plants like flowers, moss, grass ect:Image

You can add bugs to the resin too! They will stay perfectly preserved:Image

D.I.Y Cute Face Mask

So yesterday I realized how much dust there was on my overhead fan. Gross! Literally the was so much dust on my fan I thought if I turned it on I would of definitely gotten some in my lungs. I think to my self, “This HAS to get done, how do I go about cleaning this with out dying. So I decided to make a face mask. In Japan, wearing a face mask is a very popular thing. The people of Japan wear face masks to: make sure they don’t spread their sickness to others and to not GET sick from other people. I am not sick but I thought this would be a great way to NOT get sick from the dust.

Here is what you need to make this fun face mask:

  • (2)5.5×4.5 inches rectangles
  • (2)rectangles x+2=width (I will further explain)*
  • (2) 5×2 inches *
  • Fun decor, lace, ruffles, beads, etc

* For these two you can actually use binding tape (I decided to use the same fabric from the mouth piece)

ImageI started out by cutting out my  pieces. Six in total

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I then took the mouth pieces and added slight curves to each corner (I used my handy dandy wax chalk)

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TIP: Grab your two longest pieces and lets talk about the * from the intro. In order to find what the length is of the top and bottom binding, you have to measure from ear-ear or tragus to tragus. My number was 11 inches and I add 2 inches. So 13 inches by 2 inches

I then added my home made binding to the sides first. Top Stitch towards the open side. If you need help with binding I will be more than happy to make a quick tut. After that is sewn into place, I added the top and  bottom binding  and pinned that into place. This is where you add your fun, pretty, additions. I decided to add some lace to sides and the a layer of them in the middle.

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I cut and trimmed some lace and I did a blind hem stitch. I did this because it is a strong stitch and it is a less noticeable one. Remember to always pin. Pinning is your best friend when sewing.

Next connect the bottom and top bindings together to fully construct the ear pieces. I added some lace to my sides to make them look prettier. Connect and WaLa!

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What I have Been Working on!

The past few days have been very lazy. I have been cleaning the house to prepare for my boyfriends mother to come into town. I did have a haul at Hobby Lobby. Oh god, Hobby Lobby will bring the death to me and my wallet. I got a lot of fun stuff:ImageImage

ImageAnd I am currently working on the doll and another dress for Piper. I did not use a pattern, but I used a 4t shirt from the store, cut it and added the skirt area. Of course, I highly suggest that you use patterns. If you follow a pattern properly you CANT mess up. If you are doing like me, you might mess up. It is almost inevitable. So here is the dress and doll that I am working on:

ImageImageI would love to hear some feedback on this dress. I made little jelly fish tentacles so when she spins around it gives more body. I have not finished the hem yet and I may consider making it a bubble skirt